In recent years, spring frosts have not been kind to apples, peaches, apricots, and other iconic orchard fruits that grow in the northeastern United States.
Spring frosts are just one example of an increasingly unstable climate that is having a devastating impact on traditional orchards. The overall trend has included warmer winters and snap freezes. Yet there’s at least one fruit, the hardy and surprisingly little-known pawpaw (not to be confused with the papaya), that might be able to thrive in such conditions, in regions where it doesn't usually grow.
The largest edible fruit native to North America, the pawpaw’s traditional range extends from northern Florida to southern Ontario. Pawpaws grow wild in 26 U.S. states but are occasionally found in orchards, particularly in Appalachia. The pawpaw is a yellowish-green or brown fruit with a custard-like texture and a flavor with similarities to mango, pineapple, cantaloupe, and banana. It is a member of the custard apple family—the only one to grow in a temperate rather than tropical climate—and is thus closely related to soursop, sweetsop, and ylang-ylang. Unlike apples and peaches, pawpaws can withstand a snap frost by growing more flowers.
Though you probably won’t find them at the grocery store (yet), pawpaws are becoming increasingly popular with backyard hobbyists as well as small farmers hoping to hedge their bets against climate change by diversifying the fruit species they grow. Pawpaw trees are in high demand, with prices rising as they are planted outside of their traditional growing zones, especially in northern U.S. states grappling with the effects of warming temperatures.
Pursuing the pawpaw:
- The pawpaw has nicknames like “Kentucky banana” and “hillbilly mango” due to its association with Appalachia, where they grow naturally in thickets and are popular among foragers. However, plant breeders worry that due to their increasing popularity, more pawpaws need to be grown in orchards or they risk being picked clean from wild areas. Fittingly, they have recently acquired a new nickname: “hipster banana.”
- Pawpaws, which can be eaten raw or baked into desserts, are undoubtedly having a moment. Besides appearing at farmers' markets, they’re also sought after by craft breweries (think pawpaw sour beer) and creameries interested in making pawpaw ice cream and smoothies.
- Pawpaws are not without their problems. Once picked, pawpaw fruit bruises easily and can quickly become overripe to the point of fermentation. They have a longer shelf life when refrigerated but need to be frozen for storage or shipping, which is one reason why they have not become commercially successful.
