Ruching is a sewing technique in which fabric or ribbon is gathered in a repeat pattern to form scallops or petals. It has been used for many years to decorate women’s clothing, accessories and quilts. Because of its uniformity, some historians believe that ancient seamstresses used an implement to evenly space the ruching, or gathering.

Ruching is a labor-intensive, time consuming technique that, like many other art forms, is experiencing a resurgence in current fashion trends. Ruching is a French term which means to gather, ruffle or pleat. The steps to ruche involve folding the sides of the strip to the back until they meet. Then mark lines at a 90 degree angle on the front side. Stitch the lines with a matching thread; be sure to loop the thread back to the front when you reach an edge.

After stitching a few inches, the next step is to gather the fabric or ribbon into petals. Use another needle and three to curl the petals into a circular pattern. At the end of the petals, tuck the tail under and tack it. Using these techniques, a seamstress can create attractive flowers for appliqué purposes.

Modern day seamstresses use a plastic guide to mark the zig-zag pattern that will later be stitched. Another gadget, a fabric sack filled with chalk, is used to make the markings. The seamstress then sews small running stitches by hand or machine. The thread must be sturdy to allow the fabric or ribbon to be gathered. Circular ruching guides are also available for making flowers.

Metallics, ribbons and even lace can be ruched. Ruching decorated women’s clothing, including hats and petticoats, in the late 19th century. Ruching is still used in evening wear, for example in ball gowns and prom dresses. Modern ruching can even decorate a necktie. Ruching is also used in home design products, such as ruching at the bottom edge of an Austrian blind.